Ear Infections- Cause and Treatments

What is Otitis Externa?


Symptoms
1. An excessive shaking of the head or pawing at the ear.
2. Discharge or “wax” from the ear.
3. Odor from the ear.
4. Holding the head at a tilt.
5. Change in color of the ear from a normal light pink or skin tone to an inflamed darker shade.
If your dog or cat has any of the above symptoms, they may have an ear infection.

Causes
Ear infections are divided into 4 main categories:
a.) Fungal
b.) Bacterial
c.) Parasitic
d.) Allergic
It is also common to have a mixture of more than one of the above to complicate the situation.

Diagnosis
It is important to understand the cause of the infection so the veterinarian can prescribe the appropriate therapy and provide the pet owner with information that will help to not only eliminate the problem now, but to help prevent future infections. The veterinarian will determine by examination which type of infection is present. He or she may also use cultures to determine what type of infection is present, or may use allergy testing, or take a sample of the discharge to examine under the microscope. This is very beneficial and can prevent the owner from treating a fungal infection with ear mite medicine, for instance.
Once the cause of the infection is determined, therapy can begin. Each type of infection has its own specific medicine and therapy. What works in one infection may not work in another. Proper diagnosis and follow -through are important.




Fungal infections
The most common type of infection in long eared dogs is the fungal (or yeast) infection. As the dog’s ear gets wet from bathing, swimming, or playing in water, moisture collects and is held in the dog’s ear canal. The ear canal is shaped so that moisture is difficult for the dog to remove on its own. As this type of dog (especially the Cocker or other Spaniels) has long heavy ears, air is prohibited from drying the ear naturally. (This type of infection is similar to an athlete’s foot infection in people.) With moisture present in the ear, and lack of air circulation, the environment for a yeast infection is ideal. This type of infection is very stubborn to eliminate and often requires a minimum of 3-4 weeks of therapy followed by an examination by a veterinarian to make sure the ear is responding. This type of infection is one of the most frustrating problems for the pet owner because they will typically stop treating the ears when they think the infection is under control - only to have the infection return a few weeks or even months later. Most of these frustrations can simply be eliminated by having the veterinarian re-examine the ears with an otoscope every few weeks and continuing the medication until the veterinarian declares the ear to be free from infection.
Bacterial infections
There are many different types of bacteria that can be involved in the infected ear. Your veterinarian will probably take a sample of the discharge from the ear to grow the bacteria in the lab and then determine which type of antibiotic is appropriate to use. Modern lab techniques can not only identify the bacteria, but provide the doctor with a list of medications that will (or won’t) work. If you think that your dog has an infection, do not put any medication into the ear for at least 7 days, as this can interfere with accurate lab results.

Parasitic infections
Ear mites dominate this category and make up the majority of ear problems in the cat. This type of problem is characterized by an intense itching and a very dark brown to black discharge from the ear. Diagnosis can usually be made by examination of a sample of the ear discharge under the microscope and identifying the ear mite or its eggs.

Allergic
Dogs and cats that have allergies often have inflamed ears also. Many times, if the pet’s allergies are managed properly, the ear problems will respond as well. Check with your veterinarian for details on keeping your pet’s allergies under control.

Treatment
Once the veterinarian has determined which of the above categories (or combination of categories) is involved in your pet, a diagnosis is made and therapy is prescribed. Therapy usually consists of cleaning the ear canal from the debris and the mites or infection before applying the medication. The proper medication is then given. It may be a combination of oral, injectable, or topical. Most Otitis cases will not respond properly unless the ear is treated with a topical medication (drops or ointment) twice daily for a minimum of 3 weeks. The treatment should be customized to your pet’s particular problem.

Follow - through exam
A very important (and often neglected) part of the therapy for an ear infection is the follow up exam. Many infections will appear to be resolved to the owner when in fact the infection is still present deep within the ear canal. The canal is deep in the dog and cat and does not lend itself to an easy cure. Many ear infections that we see in practice are the same infection from a prior occurrence that in fact was never completely resolved! Every pet with an ear infection, should be re-examined in about 3-4 weeks to determine if the infection is cleared. Failure to do so only invites chronic and more serious infections. As ear infections become more chronic, the pet will suffer hearing loss, and surgery may be necessary to control the problem.

Summary
1. Recognize the early signs of ear infections.
2. Have the ear examined to make sure a proper diagnosis is made. This will insure that the proper medication is used for the correct amount of time .
3. Use the appropriate medication properly.
4. Schedule follow up exams with your veterinarian to know if the ears are responding and when it is safe to stop medicating.
5. Ask your veterinarian for tips on how to prevent future infections.

Paying our Clients to Participate in a Study

We are recruiting for a cat study & hope you can help!

Starting in November, we are looking for cats to participate in a feeding study. To qualify for the study, cats must:

Be at least 2 years old
In good health
Live indoors
Eat dry cat food
Vomit at least once a week (not including hairballs)
There cannot be more than 4 cats per household*
*Only 1 cat per household is eligible

The study consists of 3 vet visits and lasts 17 weeks. For participating in the study you receive:
Free food for the duration of the study
Free vet exam & routine bloodwork
$125 gift certificate to be used at our clinic
$20 of Target Gift Cards
$100 of American Express Gift Cards

If your cat meets the above criteria, please call us today at 513-742-5700 Forest Park, 513-829-6621 Fairfield, or 513-769-7387 Blue Ash to schedule your first visit!

Bladder Stones

What are bladder stones?

Bladder stones (uroliths or cystic calculi) are rock-like collections of minerals that form in the urinary bladder. They may occur as a large, single stone or as collections of stones the size of large grains of sand or gravel.

Are these the same as gall stones or kidney stones?

No. Gallstones are in the gall bladder located near the liver, and kidney stones are in the kidney. Although the kidneys and urinary bladder are both part of the urinary system, kidney stones are usually unrelated to bladder stones.

What problems do bladder stones cause?

The two most common signs of bladder stones are hematuria (blood in the urine) and dysuria (straining to urinate). Hematuria occurs because the stones irritate the bladder wall causing bleeding. Dysuria occurs when stones obstruct the flow of urine out of the bladder. Large stones may cause a partial obstruction at the point where the urine leaves the bladder and enters the urethra; small stones may flow with the urine into the urethra and cause an obstruction there.

When an obstruction occurs, the bladder cannot be emptied and this is very painful. Your dog may cry in pain, especially if pressure is applied to the abdominal wall.

Hematuria and dysuria are the most common signs seen in dogs with bladder stones but with obstruction there is also pain. We know this because when bladder stones are removed surgically, many owners tell us how much better and more active their dog feels.

Why do they form?

There are several theories of bladder stone formation. The most commonly accepted theory is called the Precipitation-Crystallization Theory. This theory states that one or more stone-forming crystalline compounds are present in elevated levels in the urine. This may be due to abnormalities in diet or due to some previous disease in the bladder, especially infection with bacteria. Sometimes the condition may be due to a problem with the body’s metabolism. When the amount of this compound reaches a threshold level, the urine is said to be supersaturated. This means that the level of the compound is so great that it cannot all be dissolved in the urine, so it precipitates and forms tiny crystals. These crystals stick together, usually due to mucus-like material within the bladder, and stones gradually form. As time passes, the stones enlarge and increase in number.


How fast do they grow?

Growth will depend on the quantity of crystalline material present and the degree of infection present. Although it may take months for a large stone to grow, some sizeable stones have been documented to form in as little as two weeks.

How are they diagnosed?

Most dogs that have bladder infections do not have bladder stones. These dogs will often have blood in the urine and will strain to urinate, the same symptoms as a dog with bladder stones. Therefore, we do not suspect bladder stones based only on these clinical signs.

Some bladder stones can be palpated (felt with the fingers) through the abdominal wall. However, failure to palpate them does not rule them out.

Most bladder stones are visible on radiographs (x-rays) or an ultrasound examination. These procedures are performed if stones are suspected. This includes dogs that show unusual pain when the bladder is palpated, dogs that have recurrent hematuria and dysuria, or dogs that have recurrent bacterial infections in the bladder.




Some bladder stones are not visible on radiographs. They are said to be radiolucent. This means that their mineral composition is such that they do not reflect the x-ray beam. These stones may be found with an ultrasound examination or with special radiographs that are made after placing a special dye (contrast material) in the bladder.

How are bladder stones treated?

There are two options for treatment. The fastest way is to remove them surgically. This requires major surgery in which the abdomen and bladder are opened. Following two to four days of recovery, the dog is relieved of pain and dysuria. The hematuria will often persist for a few days after surgery before resolving. Pets with urethral obstruction should have surgery as soon as possible unless there are other health conditions that prohibit surgery.

The second option is to attempt to dissolve certain types of bladder stones with a special diet. This avoids surgery and can be a very good choice for some dogs. However, it has three disadvantages:

1. It is not successful for all types of stones. Stone analysis is necessary to determine if it is the type of stone that can be successfully dissolved.

2. It is slow. It may take several weeks or a few months to dissolve a large stone so the dog may continue to have hematuria and dysuria during that time. The risk of urethral obstruction remains during this period.

3. Not all dogs will eat the special diet. If it is not consumed exclusively, it will not work.

Can bladder stones be prevented?

The answer is a qualified "yes." There are at least four types of bladder stones common in pets. If stones are removed surgically or if some small ones pass in the urine, they should be analyzed for their chemical composition. This will permit us to determine if a special diet will be helpful in preventing recurrence. If a bacterial infection causes stone formation, it is recommended that periodic urinalyses and urine cultures be performed to determine when antibiotics should be given. Periodic bladder x-rays or ultrasounds are helpful in determining if bladder stones are recurring. Early recognition may allow us to offer treatment options before your pet requires surgery.

This client information sheet is based on material written by Ernest E. Ward Jr., DVM.© Copyright 2002 Lifelearn Inc. Used with permission under license. October 25, 2011

Airplane Travel With Your Pet

I’m planning to travel by air and would like to take my dog with me. What are some of the factors I need to consider before taking my dog on an airplane?

Having your dog accompany you during travel may add enjoyment to your trip. It's important to keep your dog’s safety in mind when traveling, so be sure to check with the airline well in advance of your trip. Familiarize yourself with the airline’s pet requirements so that you can avoid any last minute problems. Here are some basic tips for airline travel with your dog:

1. If possible, avoid flying your pet as checked cargo during times when temperatures on the ground are likely to be below 40ºF (4 C) or above 80ºF (21 C). Some airlines will not check pets as baggage in the summer months because of potentially hot conditions in the cargo holds.

2. Take direct flights and try to avoid connections and layovers. This eliminates missed baggage connections and the chance that your dog will be left exposed in extreme weather.

3. Many airlines will allow one pet to travel in coach and one in first class, with some provisions. Some airlines limit the number of pets traveling within the cabin area so be sure to notify the airline that your dog will be traveling with you. Your dog must be in a standard cage that will fit under the seat and must not disturb your fellow travelers. Obviously, only small dogs qualify for this type of accommodation.




4. Seek the advice of your veterinarian before traveling. Update all vaccinations and take all necessary health papers with you. A health certificate for your dog may be required many flights. If you are traveling to a foreign country, be aware that many countries require a specific international health certificate. It may take several days or even weeks for your veterinarian to acquire the form so plan well in advance. You might also inquire about possible requirements to quarantine your dog should you be traveling to a foreign country or an island.

5. If possible, use airlines that hand carry your dog (inside the cage) to and from the aircraft. Otherwise, the cage could simply be placed on a conveyor belt.

6. Do not feed your dog for six hours before the flight; allow water until flight time. Water should be available in the cage during the flight. Give the dog fresh water as soon as it arrives at your destination.

7. Avoid the busiest travel times so airline personnel will have extra time to handle your dog.

8. Do not tranquilize your dog without first discussing it with your veterinarian.

9. Make sure the cage has specific feeding and identification labels permanently attached and highly visible.

10. Baggage liability limitations apply to your dog. Check your ticket for liability limits or, better yet, speak directly with the airline. If you are sending an economically valuable pet, you may want to purchase additional liability insurance.

11. Be aware that airline travel may pose a risk for dogs with a pre-existing medical problem. For example, you should carefully consider traveling by plane with a dog that has kidney or heart disease. Also, one study has shown that short-faced breeds of dogs (English bulldogs, Boston terriers, Pekinese, etc.) do not travel well in certain situations. Discuss these issues with your veterinarian prior to travel.

What do I need to consider when buying a travel carrier or cage?

Your dog's travel cage will be its "home" for much of your trip. It's important to choose the right cage. Here are some helpful guidelines:

1. The cage should be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around freely. Crates are available for dogs from two to two hundred pounds. Make sure it is an “airline-approved” crate.

2. The walls of the crate should be strong and waterproof. This will prevent crushing and waste (urine) leakage.

3. There must be adequate ventilation on at least three sides of the cage.

4. The cage must have sturdy handles for baggage personnel to use.

5. The cage should have a water tray which is accessible from the outside so that water can be added if needed.

6. Cover the bottom of the cage with an absorptive covering or underpad. Check with a pharmacy for the flat absorbent underpads that are designed for bedridden people with bladder control problems.

Pet stores, breeders, and kennels usually sell cages that meet these requirements. Some airlines also sell cages that they prefer to use. Check with the airline to see if they have other requirements.

Try to familiarize your dog with the travel cage before you leave for your trip. Let your dog play inside with the door both open and closed. This will help eliminate some of your dog's stress during the trip.

What about carry-on kennels for my small pet?

Small pets can usually be transported in the passenger cabin as long as the container will fit under the seat. Be sure and check with the airline regarding their specific carry-on requirements. Sometimes there are restrictions on the number of pets allowed in the cabin on a flight. There also may be an extra charge.

Soft, airline-approved, carry-on kennels, sometimes called Sherpa bags, are available.

Is there any other advice that might be useful as I prepare for my trip?

By applying a few common sense rules, you can keep your traveling dog safe and sound.

1. Arrange ahead of time to stay in a hotel that allows pets. Many bookstores carry travel guidebooks with this type of information. There are also helpful websites, such as www.petswelcome.com or www.travelpets.com.

2. Make sure that your dog wears a collar with an identification tag securely fastened. It should have your name, address, and telephone number.

3. Always travel with a leash-harness for your dog. This is more secure than a collar. Familiarize your dog with the harness before the trip. Attach your dog's leash while it is still inside the cage. Outside the cage, a frightened dog can easily run away before you have a chance to secure it.

4. If you leave your dog unattended in hotel rooms, make sure that there is no opportunity for escape. Leave the dog in the cage or in the bathroom. Be sure to inform housekeeping personnel of your dog and ask that they wait until you return before entering the room. Use the "Do Not Disturb" sign.

5. Should your pet get lost, contact the local animal control officer. Consider a pet identity microchip.

Remember, advance planning is vital to making the trip an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog.

This client information sheet is based on material written by Ernest E. Ward Jr., DVM. © Copyright 2002 Lifelearn Inc. Used with permission under license. October 25, 2011.

The Lovely E-Collar

When my dog was discharged from the hospital she was wearing a large plastic collar. Is this really necessary?

Elizabethan collars are often used to prevent interference with any surgery site, wound or dressings. It is natural for dogs to lick their wounds but this can seriously delay healing and result in infection. It is important that a protective collar is used, especially when the dog is unattended and could inadvertently injure itself.

My dog appears very upset when she is wearing the collar and bangs into objects. This frightens her. Can I do anything?

Most dogs will get used to the collar after a few hours. You can ease the transition by keeping your pet in a confined space where there are no small moveable objects such as stools, chairs and tables which would move if knocked

The collar often restricts vision from the sides and behind and unfortunately causes many pets’ difficulty when they must walk in tight spaces. It is important to assist them as much as possible. Ensure that any valuable objects are placed in a safe place to prevent accidental damage.

Can I allow my dog outside with the collar on?

This is not recommended due to the increased risk of injury to your pet. Your dog is at greater risk of becoming entangled in plants or bushes that could result in injury and distress Most dogs will tolerate a collar quite well if given controlled exercise on a lead.

Will eating and drinking be a problem for my dog?

A correctly sized and adjusted collar should allow for normal feeding and drinking. If your dog normally eats or drinks from a deep bowl but refuses to eat, try offering food in a shallow dish or plate. If you feel you must remove the protective collar, make sure your pet is supervised until it is replaced as soon as the meal is finished

Is there any special care that the collar requires?

It is important that both sides of the collar are kept clean. If it is difficult to do this while your pet is wearing the collar. Remove and clean the collar but make sure your pet is fully supervised so that it does not injure itself.

If you have any difficulty in replacing the collar, please contact us immediately.

A minority of dogs will not tolerate these collars. If you have problems, please do not hesitate to contact us, we will be happy to help.

This client information sheet is based on material written by Ernest E. Ward Jr., DVM © Copyright 2002 Lifelearn Inc Used with permission under license October 25, 2011.

Introducing Your Infant To Your Dog

One of the most common questions asked by an expectant parent (or grandparent) to a veterinarian is how to introduce a new infant to the family dog, particularly if the dog has not been exposed to infants before. Most dogs readily accept infants after a period of curiosity. However, there have been unfortunate incidents where infants have been injured by family dogs. It is because of these incidents that the following information is provided.

There are three types of dogs which parents should be particularly concerned about:

1. those that have already manifested aggressive tendencies to babies.
2. those that are aggressive to adults.
3. Those that have a history of predatory behavior (i.e., they chase and kill squirrels, birds, cats, goats, sheep or other mammals).

If you have a dog with these behaviors, we recommend consultation with an animal behaviorist for advice on if and how you should introduce your dog to your new child.

Fortunately, most dogs look upon a baby with curiosity and show no signs of aggression. However, some dogs perceive an infant as a strange mammal and a potential item of prey. Dogs that have never seen a baby probably do not view them as young human beings or even as small people. To help prevent accidents (sometimes fatal), some precautions should be taken.

The following protocol is designed for people to follow when they wish to be especially careful in introducing a baby to a non-aggressive family dog. The procedures should begin before the baby is born.

Because the owner will want to keep the dog quiet and under control when the baby is near, the dog should sit or lie down on command, and remain that way unless permitted to get up. It should be taught to remain calm and in a sitting position. Because the commands "sit" and "stay" will eventually be used in conjunction with the baby, they should not be associated with punishment.

Owners should begin by teaching their dog to sit and stay for food rewards. The dog is initially required to sit only for a few seconds. This time is gradually increased as the dog continues to learn. Simultaneously, the activity level around the dog is made more distracting. For example, while the dog is sitting, the person takes a step backward and then forward and then rewards the dog if it remains sitting. Next, the owner takes two steps backward, returns to the dog, takes a step to the side, then two steps to the side, etc. Gradually the owner extends the range and speed of activities, moving across the room, sitting down, standing up, rattling doorknobs, etc. The dog is rewarded for sitting and not becoming distracted.


After the dog has demonstrated it can remain seated while the owner performs other activities, you should then begin simulating activities that will occur with the baby. While the dog is in a sit/stay position, the owners can carry a doll wrapped in blankets, rock the doll in their arms, let the dog look at the doll while keeping the dog in a sit/stay position, pretend to diaper the doll, etc. The dog is rewarded for sitting and remaining calm as people engage in these activities. A firm "no" is appropriate if the dog begins to get up when it should not. However, if the owners must repeatedly say "no", it may be time to review with your dog. At no time should the owner berate the dog with threats or hit it for getting up. The idea is to avoid associating punishment with words such as "no" or "stay" because the parent will later use those words to restrain the dog in the presence of the baby. The owners should look at these practice sessions as games and not as discipline exercises.

Before the baby is brought into the house, items such as the infant’s clothing or blankets can be brought home to allow the dog to become familiar with the baby's odor. Initially, the dog should be permitted to sniff and smell the items as much as it wishes. Later, the owners might have the dog sit and stay as they pick up and put down these items, carry them, etc.

When the mother returns from the hospital, the dog should be allowed to greet her without the baby present. Only after the dog has calmed down should the baby be presented to the dog. Sometimes it is a good idea to keep the dog and baby separate for several hours, while allowing the dog to sniff more items of clothing and become aware that the baby is in the house. This way, the dog can begin to get used to the baby being in the house without actually being close enough to investigate it. The dog can adjust to the sounds and odors of the baby.

The appropriate time to introduce a baby to a dog is when the dog is calm and the baby is quiet. Optimally, two people should help with the introduction, one to control and reward the dog and the other to hold the baby.

Depending upon the personality of the dog, the person holding the baby may be sitting or standing. The dog should be on a leash in a sit/stay position and is rewarded with petting or praise. By this time, food rewards should no longer be necessary. Gradually, dog and baby are brought closer together. The dog should be allowed to see the baby but remain in a sitting position. As long as the dog is quiet, it should be allowed to remain nearby until it is necessary to move the baby or the baby becomes restless. Such introductions should be repeated several times during the first day. The dog may eventually be brought close enough so it can smell the baby, but not close as to be able to bite. The owner must use his or her own discretion as to when it is appropriate to let the dog sniff the baby closely. If after several introductions the dog is not unduly excited and can be verbally controlled, the procedures can be repeated without a leash.

The next step is to allow the dog to wander loose while the owner is with the baby. The dog should not, however, have access to the baby in unsupervised situations. A screen door can be put on the baby's room or the dog confined to areas of the house where it does not have access to the baby in the absence of the owners. The dog should be allowed as much freedom in the house and interaction with the adults as possible. Initially, when the parents prepare to play with the baby in the dog's presence, they should also interact with the dog in some manner. They might say, "let's go see the baby," or ask the dog to sit and pet it or give it a tidbit. Again, food rewards are not necessary every time the owner asks the dog to sit or stay but intermittent food rewards keep its performance level high.

No one knows when a dog understands that an infant is a person. Most dogs adjust to the infant within a few days, while others may take several weeks. After the dog has been with the child for many hours and has become used to the child's sounds and movements (i.e., pays little attention to these activities and is not aroused by them), the parents can begin to relax supervision of the dog in the presence of the child. This depends on the dog's history of aggression, especially predatory behavior. It is unlikely that an unfortunate incident would occur after a period of time if the dog is non-aggressive, relaxed and relatively uninterested in the baby in supervised circumstances. If the owners are concerned, they may put a latched screen door on their baby's bedroom door or put up gates to prevent access to the child when the owner is not there.

To get used to the infant, the dog must be gradually exposed to the infant. Initial contacts must be supervised and fun for the dog so it does not associate adverse events or punishment with the baby. With close supervision and patience, most pets bond with the infant in a special way that benefits them both. There is nothing more rewarding than watching your two- and four-legged children playing and growing together!

Pet Spotlight

This month's Pet Of The Month is Shy. She is a 5 month old Doberman Pincher that has been coming to us since June. Her parents started bringing her to daycare at The Animal Care Center to get her socialized with other dogs. She was extremely shy and quiet.


After lots of TLC from our staff, she has really come out of her shell and is quite the social butterfly now. Every morning Shy can't seem to get in the door for daycare quick enough. She loves seeing her best friends Lucy and Louie.

Pet Spotlight

Meet Sophie!

Sophie is a 160 lb. English Mastiff that has been coming to us since she was a puppy. She saw Dr Laurel at the Fairfield office this year when she came for her annual check up. She is a BIG part of the family and loves coming to the Animal Care Center! We love our big softie Sophie.

Pet Spotlight

Meet Moe Dog!

Moe is a two year old American Bulldog that has been coming to us for boarding and vet visits since he was a puppy. He is the happiest guy and makes our staff smile everytime he comes in.

He loves to lay in your lap like a baby, go up and down the ladder of his swingset with his niece and nephews and even tells his dad about his day by having a back and forth conversation with him at night. He loves watermelon and would play fetch all day if he could.

See you soon Moe dog!

Animal Care Centers works with Petland in Fairfield

Did you know that the Animal Care Centers works closely with Petland in the Fairfield area? Twice a week veterinarian Laurel Cisler and senior technician Jamie visit the Petland in Fairfield to perform physical exams, deworm, microchip, and vaccinate all puppies and kittens. The doctor also checks for any new health problems and gets medicine together for any sick pets. Both Jamie and Dr. Laurel are also involved in counseling the staff at Petland on topics such as general pet care, socialization of the animals, and sanitation.

"My favorite part of working with Petland is seeing them when they come in for the next round of vaccines after they've been adopted from the store. Owners are usually surprised and happy that I've already met their pet" says Dr Laurel.

The care and expertise does not stop at the puppies and kittens, though. They also take care of exotic pets.

Did you know... Dr Corfman is a board certified specialist?

Chances are Dr. Corfman might never tell you, but you would want to know: your veterinarian is one of a very small group of doctors who have earned the title "Diplomate" from the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners (ABVP). In fact, he is one of only 900 ABVP Diplomates in the United States and abroad. We are fortunate to have him at the Animal Care Centers.

What does that mean?

It means Dr Corfman made the choice to undergo a very long, very difficult process of additional studies and examination to become a board certified specialist. This process can take up to six years to complete. The process, however, does not end at certification. ABVP Diplomates are required to recertify every 10 years- something most other speciality groups do not require. In the end, the motivation behind achieving Diplomate status is, very simply, excellence.

ABVP Diplomates have proven knowledge and expertise above and beyond what is required to practice veterinary medicine. Beyond that, they have earned the privilege to specialize in the treatment of one or more categories of animals.

How does this affect you?

You can rest easy knowing your animals are receiving expert treatment because your veterinarian feels a strong commitment to providing the best possible care available.

What You Should Know About The American Board of Veterinary Practitioners

ABVP advances the quality of veterinary medicine through certification of veterinarians who demonstrate excellence in species-oriented clinical practice.

The Diplomates of ABVP have a common desire and willingness to deliver superior, comprehensive, multi-disciplinary veterinary service to the public. They are veterinarians who have demonstrated expertise in the board range of clinical subjects relevant to their practice and display the ability to communicate medical observations and data in an organized and appropriate manner.

Have We Seen Your Cat Lately?

There are 82 million pet cats in the U.S. compared with 72 million dogs, making cats the most popular pet. Yet studies show the number of feline veterinary visits is declining steadily each year. For example, a recent industry survey revealed that compared with dogs, almost three times as many cats hadn't received veterinary care in the past year.

The disparity may be related to common myths about cat health, such as:

• Cats are naturally healthier and more problem-free than dogs



• Feline health problems come from outside and don't affect indoor cats



• Cats will display visible signs of illness like dogs do

The truth is, cats need regular veterinary care, including annual exams and vaccinations, just like dogs do. And because they are naturally adept at hiding signs of illness, annual exams are especially important for early diagnosis of health problems.

That's why the Animal Care Centers are participating in the "Have we seen your cat lately?" national awareness campaign and taking steps to raise awareness about the importance of regular veterinary care for cats.

Introducing Dr. Laurel Cisler

Dr. Laurel is a graduate of OSU and has a special interest in the care of cats. She is a member of the American Association of Feline Practitioners and would love to meet your feline friend today! Her plans are to become a specialist and be Board Certified in the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners- Feline Practice. Is so, she will have become the only veterinarian in the Greater Cincinnati area to do so!

Pet Spotlight

Meet Lacey!

Lacey is a two year old black lab mix. She has been coming to Animal Care Center since she was 8 weeks old. She has boarded with us since she was 12 weeks old. In March of 2010, Lacey was hit by a car. She suffered a luxated right hip, dislocated left ankle, and significant tissue trauma to both legs. After undergoing surgery by Dr Maury Docton of the Animal Care Center she then received bandage changes as well as hydrotherapy. She is doing great today and is a joy to be around. Check out our facebook account www.facebook.com/animalcarecenters for a video of how she likes to play fetch!

Pet Spotlight

Meet BB!

BB is an 8 year old Scottish Terrier with such a fun loving, happy personality. He has been a boarder of ours for over 4 years now and we just love him. He loves staying in his run by the pond and loves to watch us work all day. He also loves to play fetch and will run after anything and bring it back time after time again. He also carries toys in his mouth and shakes his head back and forth and back and forth. He makes us smile. He's the best!

Physical Rehabilitation at The Animal Care Center

What is canine rehabilitation?

Research confirms that animal physical rehabilitation works just as well as physical therapy for humans. Through rehabilitation we can help increase patient mobility after orthopedic or neurological injury; help rehabilitate after a limb injury, surgery, or amputation; improve and prolong quality of life in older patients; assist in weight loss in overweight and obese animals; and manage acute and chronic pain.

Rehabilitation starts with an initial exam by your veterinarian to evaluate your pet's condition. This includes an evaluation of your pet's: gait, strength, functional mobility, and physical measurements. The doctor will then provide a prognosis of desired outcomes for therapy.


How long does the Animal Care Center rehab program last and how often will my pet be seen?

Most physical rehab programs last six to eight weeks, and patients are typically seen twice per week for the duration. It is held at our Forest Park location.

Employee Spotlight- Dawn Tillie-

Dawn Tillie is in charge of our canine rehabilitation program.

Q: Dawn, can you tell us a little bit about the canine rehabilitation program? What are some of the things you do at each session?
A: Rehabilitation is a fairly new development that benefits a multitude of patients. It is wonderful when a dog comes to me unable to weight bear or use a specific limb but leaves with proper use of all four legs. My dad had his leg amputated when I was three years old, so I grew up watching someone go through surgeries and therapy. With each session, I gradually increase exercise, constantly working on extension and increasing muscle mass.


Q: How long have you been with The Animal Care Centers?
A: I have been with the Animal Care Centers for three and a half years. Before that I was with Dr Corfman an additional three years. When he joined The Animal Care Centers, I came with him.

Q: What is your favorite part of your job?
A: I thoroughly enjoy helping a patient that is severely debilitated gain back a high quality of life.


Q: What was one of your most rewarding patients?
A: It would have to be a ten week old pitbull puppy that was brought to us with the canine parvo virus and hypothermia. The owner relinquished the puppy to me. We treated him for parvo. He then developed polyimmune mediated arthritis, which we also treated. He was unable to walk with use of his forearms, instead he did a military crawl. I was able to get him walking again. He has been adopted and has a great home!

Because Dawn does such a great job. I thought we should brag about her a bit- check out the letter a client wrote to her:

Dear Dawn,


The surgery is over and you think you can sigh a sigh of relief. Wrong... your pet's recovery after surgery is the most worrisome time.

Now the journey of recovery begins and requires the most work and patience. Recovery and rehabilitation go hand in hand. I have found you, Dawn, to be my light at the end of the tunnel. You have been a remarkable support during my pet's recovery from ACL surgery. I feel her progress has been accelerated due to your dedication to helping Lucy regain her once active lifestyle. Your ability to know what Lucy needs amazes me; after each session of rehab, it was apparent that Lucy made noticeable improvements towards being the happy, playful pet she was before her torn ACL. Each week you bring something new to the session that moves Lucy toward her goal. You, Dawn, have been a delight to work with, and your wealth of knowledge has led me to believe how much improved Lucy has been since our very first visit. Your hands on technique and patience to teach me what I needed to do at home was absolutely amazing. The love and tenderness you show us both is something to be said in itself. I am forever grateful for the knowledge you have given me, as I have seen firsthand how this expertise restores the activity level, strength, confidence, and pain free lifestyle Lucy led before the surgery. I would encourage and urge anyone who has had a pet recovering from surgery to going the extra mile and incorporating rehabilitation as a was of a quicker recovery and a happier, healthier pet.

Dawn, I would like to also thank you for the energy, love and enthusiasm you have shown in a profession you were definitely destined for. I wholeheartedly thank you from both Lucy and I.

Gratefully yours,
Amy S.

Thanks for all you do for Canine Rehab and ACC, Dawn!

Meet Yoda!

Employee Spotlight

Connie Winkle

Today's employee spotlight is Connie Winkle. Connie has been with the Animal Care Centers for almost 7 years now and she has a heart made for this job! Connie goes above and beyond her responsibilities to make sure every animal gets extra love and affection. Not only is she a part of our kennel staff but she also helps in the hospital.  She loves what she does and is dedicated to making every day count. She once got a hotel room next to the Blue Ash clinic during a snowy winter to insure she was at work on time to tend to the animals. Her continuous smile and helpful attitude makes her irreplacable.  Thank you for all you do, Connie!

Pet Spotlight

Hoya Shapiro

 Meet Hoya Shapiro. She is a 14 year old domestic shorthair. She is such a sweet, loving cat who moved here from Japan. She has been a frequent boarder of our cat condos at the Reed Hartman location since May 2003. Unfortunately, she will be moving again to Florida in a couple of weeks. We sure will miss her!!

Piranha Puppies

Puppies learn and explore by using their mouth. Biting during play and social interactions are normal, but having sharp teeth embedded in your ankle or arm is not fun. It is up to you to train your puppy how to use his mouth in an acceptable manner. Strategies for controlling the little piranha include giving him basic training, providing sufficient stimulation to meet his needs, encouraging acceptable behavior, and interrupting undesirable biting behavior.

 

Here's some tips

 

Don't encourage the behavior

Avoid games that encourage your puppy to attack your hands or any body part. You should also be careful not to reward "mouthy" behavior. If your puppy gets your attention when he places his mouth on you, the behavior will continue. Reinforcing behaviors can be anything from petting him, picking him up, gently talking to him, and even a light scolding. The best thing is to tell the puppy "no" and walk away. Do not give puppy anymore attention.

 

A tired puppy is a good puppy

Excessive mouthing, biting or playing too rough can all be signs that your pet is not getting enough exercise or mental stimulation.  Give your pup plenty of exercise by walking, playing fetch, romping in the yard, or chasing a soccer ball. You, not the puppy, should be the one to initiate these play sessions.

The more energy the pup uses for appropriate activities, the less he will use for mouthy biting behavior.  

 

Train early

Enroll your pet in puppy socialization and training classes as soon as possible. Then, teach him that you are in control by using obedience commands. Ask him to sit before giving him things he wants or needs, and occasionally command him to stay for a second or two before following you around the home or stairs or going through a doorway. Ignore all pushy behaviors, such as nudging, pawing or whining for attention.

    A drag line can be a helpful tool for managing the pup's biting behavior, and can be particularly useful in the yard. Tie a long line (10 foot indoors and 20 foot outdoors) to your pet's collar so you can quickly grab the line when you need to stop the biting. Be sure that the pet is closely supervised when he is wearing a drag line.

    More headstrong pups may require a leash and head halter for control. By leaving these attached when the pet is with the family, you can instantly stop mouthing and biting with a gentle pull of the leash. Release tension as soon as the biting or mouthing stops. Head halters can give all family members, even young children a considerable amount of control over the pet.

    

The "leave it" command

    While some mouthing during play is acceptable, it is important that the pet learns to stop on command. This can be done by teaching the "leave it"  command when he is biting. Begin your training when the pet is very calm. With a leashed puppy, place a piece of food on the floor. Walk up to the food and tell the puppy "leave it". Hand the puppy a small piece of dry food.  Be dramatic, lean toward the pup, and make eye contact when you give the instructive reprimand. Gradually increase the time the puppy has to wait before giving the pet a treat. Once he learns to leave the food alone on command, practice the exercise without food by using only the command "leave it". After some diligent training, when the puppy starts to bite, say "leave it" to stop the puppy from biting.

 

What not to do

   Use positive training methods rather than harsh correction or physical punishment. This kind of correction may make biting problem worse or lead to fear and aggression.